Mishti doi in Kolkata is rarely made at home. Like the neighbourhood patisserie in France, where delicate confections are picked up for pudding, every district within the city has a local sweet shop that makes
doi to such a standard that home cooking is not even considered. Dusky rose in colour with a thick almost fudge-like crust, it is intensely sweet with a sour tang. Difficult to replicate at home; the secret is to use buffalo milk and steam in porous, unglazed earthen pots that wick away excess moisture. Since both of these can be difficult to get hold of here, any recipe is an approximation of the sweet shop experience.
Bhapa Mishti Doi -Bengali Steamed Sweet Yoghurt
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| Bhapa mishti doi Kolkata style -we crossed the mega-city to buy this from the Doi King (or Raja). |
I have two recipes for you here. Both of them require steaming overnight or a minimum of 8 hours to set, before chilling in the fridge. The first, the more traditional method, requires time, patience and a watchful eye. To rush it and turn up the heat may mean the milk and sugar catch and burn so that all your efforts are spoiled. The second offers a short cut for the time pressed but tastes just as good and, if I'm honest, I use this recipe more often. I would recommend using the oven from cold, too hot an oven will kill off the bacterial culture within the yoghurt and it will not set.
Thick, sweet and luxurious, don't be fooled by this being a yoghurt; as every Bengali will tell you, this is a show stopping way to end a meal.
Serves 8
Recipe 1
Ingredients
1L whole milk -buffalo if you can get
250g light muscovado sugar
200g Asian style
live set yoghurt (available at most Asian grocers or
live Greek yoghurt)
Crushed pistachios or flaked almonds (optional)
Method
Pour the milk into a heavy bottomed saucepan and add the sugar. Turn the heat up to allow the sugar to dissolve and then, turn the heat down so that the mixture putters. Stir regularly and continue until the volume of the mixture reduces by almost half. This may take an hour or two but do not be tempted to turn it up to a boil -if the bottom catches, the whole mixture will taint.
Take off the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. Pour into a mixing bowl and add the yoghurt. Whisk until smooth and then transfer to an oven proof dish or individual ramekins.
Preheat the oven to approximately 100
oC. Place the oven proof dish into a baking tray and pour in cold water until it reaches half way up the sides. Place into the middle of the oven and after 5 minutes, turn the oven off and leave over night. Do not be tempted to open the oven to take a peek.
By morning, you will have a rich, thick set yoghurt. Cover and refrigerate until required. Serve with crushed pistachios or flaked almonds or neither if you prefer. Best served alongside a cup of first flush Darjeeling.
Recipe 2 -when time pushed or impatient
1 can (397g) condensed milk
1 can (400g) evaporated milk
200g Asian style
live set yoghurt (available at most Asian grocers or
live Greek yoghurt)
Crushed pistachios or flaked almonds (optional)
Preheat the oven to 100
oC. Pour the condensed and evaporated milk into a bowl and mix together. Add the yoghurt and whisk, incorporating it thoroughly. Pour into an oven proof dish or individual ramekins and place into a baking tray. Pour cold water into the tray until halfway up the sides of the dish and place into the middle of the oven. After 5 minutes, turn the oven off and leave over night. Do not be tempted to open the oven and take a peek.
